Feliz Navidad

Piñatas fill the Town Hall

One of Atlixco's claims to fame is the annual Villa Iluminada, a six-week-long Christmas light exhibit spanning several blocks of the downtown area. If you're imagining a quaint display like what you could find in any city center at this time of year, think again.

The lighting company in charge of the event has also illuminated the Eiffel Tower and other major landmarks, dozens of local businesses set up booths to sell refreshments and artesanías, and hundreds of people (from poblanos to alemanes to argentinos) flood the streets every night to enjoy the sights, sounds, and supposedly safe fairground rides. So it's kind of a big deal. And it causes some major traffic issues that the locals love to complain about.

November 25th, opening night

This year the theme is villancicos, but not all of the seasonal decorations are symbols I personally associate with Christmas carols. (I was pretty much laughed out of town when I asked if the theme was "Under the Sea," because of all the light-up fish adorning the buildings.)

Some of the songs inspiring the extravagant trimmings are familiar, but many of our holiday classics are irrelevant given the lack of snow (today's high is 79, I came home drenched in sweat after walking around... for 15 minutes... in a sundress) and the fact that the Wise Men, not Santa, are the bearers of gifts (but not until January 6th, and only for kids under 12). Thus, we're left jams like "Los peces en el río" and "Campana sobre campana," as well as some loosely adapted Spanish versions of faves like "Jingle Bells," the chorus of which ends up translating to "Christmas, sweet Christmas, happiness on this day, we gotta celebrate" (close enough?).

Chocolate dipped strawberries with a side of Christmas spirit

Despite the incongruous weather, the winter wonderland is complete with hot ponche and donuts, some poor souls who've chosen to don fur coats in the barely chilly weather, and many nods to the Biblical reason for the season.

In contrast to the increasing secularism in the US, the birth of el niño Jesús is actually an acceptable conversation topic in the public sphere-- in fact, students at the primaria where I volunteer have been preparing for their performances of the nativity story--, so it's really no surprise that this scene is the centerpiece of the attraction:

Several Fulbrighters have come to visit since the beginning of the Villa, so I've done the whole recorrido many times already. As a result, my students who work there correctly think I'm weirdly obsessed with it/them, but at least I look super popular showing up with a different group of friends every time!! One student who was working as a guide for the train ride even handed me and Alli the microphone and forced us to sing to the group in English, good times ha ha ha... (or should I say ho ho ho?!)

Los reyes magos in the flesh

My duties as Fulbright tour guide also required that I hike the cerro twice this week. As a result I caught some incredible sunsets AND my body is steadily approaching (Kourtney?) Kardashian status.

In all seriousness, showing others around my host city once again reminded me how fortunate I am to have ended up here, enjoying the experience of a lifetime in such a truly beautiful place.

*Lavar Burton voice* But you don't have to take my word for it!

See for yourself:

I touch down in the US of A in less than a week! Sing it boys: