martes, 2 de diciembre de 2014

Holy cow!


When Carrie and I were initially texting about the possibility of her coming to visit, the idea seemed far-fetched and the potential dates over Thanksgiving break seemed depressingly far-off. But ever since she officially purchased her tickets I'd been excitedly anticipating her arrival (and that excitement really sustained me through my more homesick moments!), so our time together definitely had a dream-like quality. On top of the amazingness of just being in one another's presence, we managed to jam-pack each day with a bunch of fun activities. It was SO fun to play the tour guide and show off my knowledge of the city (and it didn't hurt that C was very easily impressed-- she oohed and aahed at everything from me hailing a taxi to ordering a meal); plus, staying with my host family let her experience my day-to-day life here, something that I'm sure will be hard for me to describe when I return home. We shared so many hilarious moments that we'll definitely be talking about for years to come (like when she taught my host dad the phrase "Holy cow!" and translated it for him as "religiosa carne" [religious meat]...).

p.s. photo creds to Caroline for most of the pretty pics


Tuesday

Our meet-up in the airport miraculously went off without a hitch, and after swinging by the house to meet Lili & Gus/drop off luggage we headed out to explore! Thanks to Caroline's enthusiasm with the camera, we now have several photos of me in my "natural habitat":

My BA home!
UBA
And of course my favorite café/cupcake shop Muma's was an obligatory stop on our walk through Caballito:

It's "Sin TACC" (aka gluten-free and our motto for the week)!!!
Next we took the subte over to Plaza de Mayo:


C was also really into forcing me to pose for solo shots

We walked to Puerto Madero, where we sat to take in the view of the water (and some pibe tried to flirt with us by asking what we were looking at, to which we responded with awkward laughter)...



Next up on the itinerary was El Ateneo, the theater-turned-bookstore that's one of my favorite spots in the city.


Obviously we had to break for a quick nap before the big night ahead-- a tango show at Café Tortoni, one of the most famous tourist destinations in BA. The Brazilian couple we sat with (particularly the guy) was almost as entertaining as the impressive dances...


Our new friend insisted on creating the most authentic photo op for each of us 


Wednesday

We hopped on a colectivo to travel to our first stop of the day, los bosques de Palermo. (Caroline, upon boarding the bus: "You mean you do this by yourself sometimes?!" Me: "Uhh, yeah like every day...?") 

GBWC reps @ the Jardín Japonés 
We were both reminded of the Atlanta Botanical Gardens because of the contrast between the natural & urban landscapes (but we missed you so much, Mimi & E!)
~~swan lake~~
We're not exactly sure what was going on here but we liked the music video vibes
El Rosedal
After so much paseando we were ravenous for lunch, which we devoured at a lovely cafe in Palermo Soho (salads + gourmet juices-- hers with ginger and mine with mango). By a stroke of luck, we stumbled across a gluten-free store while window-shopping in the area so Carrie got to have a special sin TACC version of an alfajor!! We were hoping to get mani-pedis as well, but when they started preparing for Caroline's pedicure by filling a dirty at-home foot spa with cold water, we made up a (probably unconvincing) excuse and ran out the door...

That night we went to see Mockingjay, and since it was only my second time going to a movie theater here we slightly embarrassed ourselves by ignoring the assigned seats listed on our tickets (so when another group came to our row we had to gather up our $15 worth of popcorn, beverages, and self-serve gummy candy and sheepishly relocate). Despite all that, it was a great experience because the movie and junk food binge were maravilloso (one of C's new fave Spanish words).

Thoroughly unhungry after gorging on movie snacks, we naturally made our way to a nearby steakhouse for dinner. As much as we loved the delicious ojo de bife and mashed potatoes, the waiter made fun of us because we could hardly make a dent in the huge quantities they had brought us (in my defense, I *had* to eat both mine and Carrie's bread and empanada appetizers that came with the meal...).


Parrilla Peña

Thursday

Since the Argentines have no reason to even acknowledge Thanksgiving (and my host family's knowledge of the holiday is based only on the related Friends episodes), we didn't really observe Turkey Day in any traditional sense. Instead, Gustavo and Lili offered to drive us to Tigre, a small port town in the BA province. We walked through the shops of the market along the river and then had a boat tour!

Mi familia <3
Lili telling me to find a boyfriend on the boat tour


Since we had woken up bright and early for the mini trip, by the time we got back to the city we still had several hours to kill before dinnertime. So we grabbed some food at Miró, a precious café that I often go to para estudiar. (In general it was really strange to be so outright American [e.g. speaking English in public], especially in my neighborhood which is not touristy at all. But I think going back to some of my normal haunts with Caroline in tow explained a lot for the people working there who had always been very confused by me/my accent/weirdness...) And then we decided to check out the newish exhibit at MALBA, a museum I hadn't visited since the very beginning of the semester. I'm now a huge fan of Antonio Berni (all works below are by him); his multimedia style is fascinante. 








Over dinner with the fam we discussed the historical origin of Thanksgiving (which we basically concluded is largely based on myth) and then we went around the table to say what we were thankful for (their idea, not ours!). Though it felt weird to be away from home for the holiday, I was indescribably grateful to have my sister/bff by my side!! And then, to top it off, C & I had the chance to FaceTime with Dad :)

Friday

For our last day I was determined to fit in everything else we had yet to see, and surprisingly we were able to accomplish it all with time to spare! Shoutout to C for being a good sport when the walk to from the subte to the San Telmo market turned a little sketch...

"Let me take a picture of you looking through the photos!!!"
Lunch spot
Celiac-friendly sandwich and squash risotto nom nom nom
Our next destination was El cementerio de Recoleta (the perfect place for Caroline to practice her photography skills after our lesson with Leandro the night before...):

Is it sacrilegious to take smiley pictures in a cemetery?  
If so, I'd assume that this Selena-Gomez-AMA-performance shot probably is too...

After Caroline accidentally walked into an employees-only entrance of a kiosk and thus became the laughingstock of a group of nearby teenagers, we got refreshments and then ventured over the pedestrian bridge (where a political group from UBA were filming a demonstration about the recent Mexican students' disappearance... and asked us to participate, which we politely declined...). 


We also visited El Museo de Bellas Artes just for kicks, and then sat in a cute café for a bit before going back to the house for dinner (a special gluten-free pizza!).

I don't think I can put into words the antics from dinner Tues/Thurs/Fri, but ask Carrie if you want to hear (a most likely significantly exaggerated version of) what went down. I'll just say it involved lots of confusing but delightful conversation in English/Spanish/Italian, endless laughter, and at one point Caroline "playing" the guitar and singing... 

So yeah I'm basically convinced that my host parents like my sister better than me-- Gus sent her off by blasting "Sweet Caroline" at 6am as we were leaving for the airport and they said if she ever comes back to Buenos Aires she has a place to stay... And it was muy difícil to say goodbye, but thankfully it was more of a ¡hasta pronto!, because I'll be reunited with her and the whole fam in just a few short weeks!! (Though I'm doing my best to soak up my last bit of time here, since I know I'll regret it if I wish it away!)

In other news...

We had a party with our students and some of their parents at Centro Conviven yesterday to celebrate the semester. It was amazing to hear several moms say that because of their children's progress in the class they had passed their school English exams! I'm going to miss those kiddos SOOO much.



This was the "serious" picture, if you couldn't tell...

martes, 25 de noviembre de 2014

out & about

[Written while Caroline was napping in my bed (I still can't believe she's here!!!)]

I thought I'd take the chance to post about some of the fun I've had over the last couple weeks; I managed to check off a few BA-bucket-list items between bouts of working on my final tests and assignments.


La noche de los museos

"The night of the museums" is a city-sponsored event where tons of Buenos Aires' cultural centers offer free admission to the public for several hours on a Saturday night. The concept is genial but since "the public" refers to a few million people, almost every place is packed. Nonetheless, Rachel and I passed through a concert at the planetarium and then visited Museo Evita, which is dedicated to the country's sweetheart Eva Peron (think Madonna). I'm ashamed to say even after touring the museum all I really understand is that she was a stylish actress who married the guy who became president and then she helped the less fortunate (I think?!). 


Concert at el planetario 
Museo Evita

Afternoon Tea at Las Violetas

Who knew one of the most famous cafés in the city was located on my side of town? Upon finding this out, I invited Sarah to accompany me to a sugary/carby feast.

All this for only ten bucks and a slight tummy ache each!
My happy place (sitting in front of a plate full of treats)



Did I mention there was champagne included?

Tour of la Casa Rosada

I'd seen the palatial mansion many times from outside, but the free tour provided a new perspective as we got to see the majority of the house, including President Kirchner's office!


I don't think I'm getting any better at solo shots #whatdoIdowithmyhands

Exhibit B
The Eva Perón room (did I mention they're obsessed with her?), where they have official dinners

La Bomba de Tiempo

This incredible drum show happens every Monday night, and after months of meaning to go I'm so glad I finally made it! 




Además...

Los bosques de Palermo
Host dad's concert in the park! (He's the guitarist on the right)

Adorable brunch spot with Rachel  

Cool subte artwork

Teaching at Conviven several weeks ago!

 I'll try to write again soon- I'm sure the next few days with C will require a whole entry of their own!

miércoles, 12 de noviembre de 2014

Es lo que hay

This phrase, which I've picked up from Kasey recently, roughly translates to "it is what it is" or "that's how it goes sometimes," and it was especially relevant during my recent trip to Iguazu Falls. We had an absolutely amazing time, despite a couple bumps along the way.

It all started when I decided to skip the pricey 100 peso (read: ten dollar) cab ride and instead take the colectivo to the omnibus station on Thursday. This decision was due in part to the culture of taxi-shaming that has come to predominate amongst the members of our program; admitting you sprang for a taxi instead of roughing it in public transportation tends to draw poorly-concealed looks of judgement from fellow students. But that's another blog post. Anyway, even though I allowed more than an hour for the bus ride to Retiro, the route por supuesto took way longer than expected and I ended up frantically asking those seated around me for ETA-updates and advice. With the guidance of some friendly strangers I hopped off the bus a stop early and sprinted hobbled as quickly as I could while wearing my overloaded backpack to meet my friends. Although I was 99% sure I was going to miss the micro and wind up missing out on the entire trip, my panic was all in vain and we even had to wait like 15 minutes before boarding. Es lo que hay.

I had plenty of time to decompress from all that frenzy during our 18-hour bus ride! I initially resisted this alternative to a two-hour flight, but the ride was surprisingly easy and comfortable, not to mention way cheaper. We giggled our way through the first few hours, jamming to the 80's party playlist and cheerfully enduring the dinner of cold lentils, sandwiches, and Jell-O. Then I mostly slept the rest of the journey (shoutout to melatonin pills!), waking up occasionally to find it raining heavily outside and to notice the old man across the aisle staring at me and Rachel. ¿Es lo que hay?

When we arrived in Iguazu it was still pouring rain- so much for our plan to go straight to the park! (Es lo que hay... but ugh.) Trying our best to stay positive, we checked into our adorable hostel, enjoyed a warm breakfast, and headed out into the elements to walk along the costanera and conduct the obligatory photo shoot by the tres fronteras (blame the wind for our bedraggled appearances... but blame us for the dorky poses?):





Determined to fill the drizzly day with more fun activities, we picked up a flyer at the hostel about a nearby animal sanctuary and presented it to the bus driver as instructions on where to take us (if you couldn't tell already we were in major tourist mode). He dropped us off at the entrance, but unfortunately we had just missed the last tour of the day. Es lo q... you get the idea. Instead, we went with our backup plan- a visit to La Aripuca. The jury's still out on what exactly it was (ruins? tourist trap? life-size Lincoln Logs replicas?) but highlights include dulce de leche ice cream and this thug lyfe picture:



That night we checked an important item of the study-abroad bucket list by visiting Icebar Iguazu. In our orange coats/gloves and sundresses we entered the -10 °C room, along with a huge group of rowdy, selfie-loving Brazilians (plus a few young children?!), where we sampled cocktails from our ice cups (spoiler alert: the chocolate bonbon drink is grody not as tasty as one might expect). After our allotted 30 minutes we were ushered out, just as my bare legs were beginning to get frost bite.



Gracias a Dios, on Saturday the sun was shining so we hopped in a taxi (this is acceptable in groups apparently?) and were finally on our way to see las cataratas. Through a series of confusing events, our taxi driver came into the park with us. Yeah, we're still not sure what that was about, but he left eventually... We made a reservation for the first possible boat ride and then started meandering down the path. After a while we realized we should probably try to find the place to board the boat. Long story short, we are terrible at reading maps and we got quite turned around, so we had no choice but to sprint the entirety of the lower circuit (no time to pause and admire the STUNNING views of waterfalls we were passing by). Por fin we arrived and, as luck would have it, we had not missed our reservation. Soon we were loading our valuables into waterproof bags and jetting off in the boat to get up-close and personal with (read: completely, blissfully drenched by) the incredible falls.

The remainder of the afternoon we wandered around in awe, taking in the view from every possible angle. It's really impossible to capture that experience with photos, but regardless I snapped un montón:







Besides the waterfalls, the park also features lush jungle and interesting wildlife. You can probably imagine my reaction to the multitude of coatis that roam freely. (Let's just say I wasn't as unperturbed by them as they were by the many tourists... But can you blame me when graphic signs like these line the walkways?!) After hours of walking around we were utterly exhausted and wanted nothing else but a low-key evening of relaxation. Or so we told ourselves when our big plan for the weekend, a night tour of the park during the full moon, fell through. Es lo que hay, I guess.

We had heard that the Brazil side of the falls offered an impressive panoramic view, but we weren't so enthused about paying hundreds of dollars for the visa that's required to officially cross the border. Thus, we resorted to a not-so-legal scheme that involved several buses and sadly, no new stamp in our passports. (The lack of stamp may or may not have bothered us more than the sketchy measures/potential foreign jail time...) 

As expected, the Brazil side of the falls were spectacular. We agreed that the best part was the walkway into la garganta del diablo (devil's throat). Once again, the experience was too overwhelmingly magnificent to truly represent in pictures, but:






After another beautiful day we made it back to Argentina (after an issue in customs regarding not our illegal crossing to Brazil, but Natalie's forgotten paperwork that earned her a strict warning from the border control officer...)! 

The only thing that could have made the weekend better would have been enjoying the sights with the other GBWC members by my side (McSwain insider- sorry to anyone else, but who am I kidding no one else is reading this). But alas, es lo que hay

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Some of you might be thinking, "Wow! Malissa sure is communing with nature quite a bit recently!" Well, let me add to your amazement; a mere day after returning from Iguazu, I spent nearly seven hours at the Teimakèn zoo with Lili, Gus, Alejandra, and Ale's boyfriend who's visiting. While I may detest all animals except Cassi not be the biggest animal lover, I actually had a great time checking out the many exotic species (from a safe distance, of course)!





The bird got camera shy 

Smiling through the fear

OK this one was actually kinda cool




"Zella, Zack and Zodiac," anyone?