martes, 25 de noviembre de 2014

out & about

[Written while Caroline was napping in my bed (I still can't believe she's here!!!)]

I thought I'd take the chance to post about some of the fun I've had over the last couple weeks; I managed to check off a few BA-bucket-list items between bouts of working on my final tests and assignments.


La noche de los museos

"The night of the museums" is a city-sponsored event where tons of Buenos Aires' cultural centers offer free admission to the public for several hours on a Saturday night. The concept is genial but since "the public" refers to a few million people, almost every place is packed. Nonetheless, Rachel and I passed through a concert at the planetarium and then visited Museo Evita, which is dedicated to the country's sweetheart Eva Peron (think Madonna). I'm ashamed to say even after touring the museum all I really understand is that she was a stylish actress who married the guy who became president and then she helped the less fortunate (I think?!). 


Concert at el planetario 
Museo Evita

Afternoon Tea at Las Violetas

Who knew one of the most famous cafés in the city was located on my side of town? Upon finding this out, I invited Sarah to accompany me to a sugary/carby feast.

All this for only ten bucks and a slight tummy ache each!
My happy place (sitting in front of a plate full of treats)



Did I mention there was champagne included?

Tour of la Casa Rosada

I'd seen the palatial mansion many times from outside, but the free tour provided a new perspective as we got to see the majority of the house, including President Kirchner's office!


I don't think I'm getting any better at solo shots #whatdoIdowithmyhands

Exhibit B
The Eva Perón room (did I mention they're obsessed with her?), where they have official dinners

La Bomba de Tiempo

This incredible drum show happens every Monday night, and after months of meaning to go I'm so glad I finally made it! 




Además...

Los bosques de Palermo
Host dad's concert in the park! (He's the guitarist on the right)

Adorable brunch spot with Rachel  

Cool subte artwork

Teaching at Conviven several weeks ago!

 I'll try to write again soon- I'm sure the next few days with C will require a whole entry of their own!

miércoles, 12 de noviembre de 2014

Es lo que hay

This phrase, which I've picked up from Kasey recently, roughly translates to "it is what it is" or "that's how it goes sometimes," and it was especially relevant during my recent trip to Iguazu Falls. We had an absolutely amazing time, despite a couple bumps along the way.

It all started when I decided to skip the pricey 100 peso (read: ten dollar) cab ride and instead take the colectivo to the omnibus station on Thursday. This decision was due in part to the culture of taxi-shaming that has come to predominate amongst the members of our program; admitting you sprang for a taxi instead of roughing it in public transportation tends to draw poorly-concealed looks of judgement from fellow students. But that's another blog post. Anyway, even though I allowed more than an hour for the bus ride to Retiro, the route por supuesto took way longer than expected and I ended up frantically asking those seated around me for ETA-updates and advice. With the guidance of some friendly strangers I hopped off the bus a stop early and sprinted hobbled as quickly as I could while wearing my overloaded backpack to meet my friends. Although I was 99% sure I was going to miss the micro and wind up missing out on the entire trip, my panic was all in vain and we even had to wait like 15 minutes before boarding. Es lo que hay.

I had plenty of time to decompress from all that frenzy during our 18-hour bus ride! I initially resisted this alternative to a two-hour flight, but the ride was surprisingly easy and comfortable, not to mention way cheaper. We giggled our way through the first few hours, jamming to the 80's party playlist and cheerfully enduring the dinner of cold lentils, sandwiches, and Jell-O. Then I mostly slept the rest of the journey (shoutout to melatonin pills!), waking up occasionally to find it raining heavily outside and to notice the old man across the aisle staring at me and Rachel. ¿Es lo que hay?

When we arrived in Iguazu it was still pouring rain- so much for our plan to go straight to the park! (Es lo que hay... but ugh.) Trying our best to stay positive, we checked into our adorable hostel, enjoyed a warm breakfast, and headed out into the elements to walk along the costanera and conduct the obligatory photo shoot by the tres fronteras (blame the wind for our bedraggled appearances... but blame us for the dorky poses?):





Determined to fill the drizzly day with more fun activities, we picked up a flyer at the hostel about a nearby animal sanctuary and presented it to the bus driver as instructions on where to take us (if you couldn't tell already we were in major tourist mode). He dropped us off at the entrance, but unfortunately we had just missed the last tour of the day. Es lo q... you get the idea. Instead, we went with our backup plan- a visit to La Aripuca. The jury's still out on what exactly it was (ruins? tourist trap? life-size Lincoln Logs replicas?) but highlights include dulce de leche ice cream and this thug lyfe picture:



That night we checked an important item of the study-abroad bucket list by visiting Icebar Iguazu. In our orange coats/gloves and sundresses we entered the -10 °C room, along with a huge group of rowdy, selfie-loving Brazilians (plus a few young children?!), where we sampled cocktails from our ice cups (spoiler alert: the chocolate bonbon drink is grody not as tasty as one might expect). After our allotted 30 minutes we were ushered out, just as my bare legs were beginning to get frost bite.



Gracias a Dios, on Saturday the sun was shining so we hopped in a taxi (this is acceptable in groups apparently?) and were finally on our way to see las cataratas. Through a series of confusing events, our taxi driver came into the park with us. Yeah, we're still not sure what that was about, but he left eventually... We made a reservation for the first possible boat ride and then started meandering down the path. After a while we realized we should probably try to find the place to board the boat. Long story short, we are terrible at reading maps and we got quite turned around, so we had no choice but to sprint the entirety of the lower circuit (no time to pause and admire the STUNNING views of waterfalls we were passing by). Por fin we arrived and, as luck would have it, we had not missed our reservation. Soon we were loading our valuables into waterproof bags and jetting off in the boat to get up-close and personal with (read: completely, blissfully drenched by) the incredible falls.

The remainder of the afternoon we wandered around in awe, taking in the view from every possible angle. It's really impossible to capture that experience with photos, but regardless I snapped un montón:







Besides the waterfalls, the park also features lush jungle and interesting wildlife. You can probably imagine my reaction to the multitude of coatis that roam freely. (Let's just say I wasn't as unperturbed by them as they were by the many tourists... But can you blame me when graphic signs like these line the walkways?!) After hours of walking around we were utterly exhausted and wanted nothing else but a low-key evening of relaxation. Or so we told ourselves when our big plan for the weekend, a night tour of the park during the full moon, fell through. Es lo que hay, I guess.

We had heard that the Brazil side of the falls offered an impressive panoramic view, but we weren't so enthused about paying hundreds of dollars for the visa that's required to officially cross the border. Thus, we resorted to a not-so-legal scheme that involved several buses and sadly, no new stamp in our passports. (The lack of stamp may or may not have bothered us more than the sketchy measures/potential foreign jail time...) 

As expected, the Brazil side of the falls were spectacular. We agreed that the best part was the walkway into la garganta del diablo (devil's throat). Once again, the experience was too overwhelmingly magnificent to truly represent in pictures, but:






After another beautiful day we made it back to Argentina (after an issue in customs regarding not our illegal crossing to Brazil, but Natalie's forgotten paperwork that earned her a strict warning from the border control officer...)! 

The only thing that could have made the weekend better would have been enjoying the sights with the other GBWC members by my side (McSwain insider- sorry to anyone else, but who am I kidding no one else is reading this). But alas, es lo que hay

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Some of you might be thinking, "Wow! Malissa sure is communing with nature quite a bit recently!" Well, let me add to your amazement; a mere day after returning from Iguazu, I spent nearly seven hours at the Teimakèn zoo with Lili, Gus, Alejandra, and Ale's boyfriend who's visiting. While I may detest all animals except Cassi not be the biggest animal lover, I actually had a great time checking out the many exotic species (from a safe distance, of course)!





The bird got camera shy 

Smiling through the fear

OK this one was actually kinda cool




"Zella, Zack and Zodiac," anyone?



sábado, 25 de octubre de 2014

"I would like a cookie, please!"


My internship at Centro Conviven has, without a doubt, been one of the highlights of my time in Buenos Aires. I've neglected to write about it until now because it's so difficult to put into words the unpredictable/overwhelming/chaotic-yet-sweet/adorable/rewarding nature of the English classes I teach for elementary school students living in or near the slum of Mataderos. I spend about 10 hours a week at the little-but-lively community center, though usually I'm only teaching for 2-3 of those hours; the rest of the time I plan lessons, hang out with my fellow volunteers, eat lunch prepared by the amazing staff member Carmen (arroz and milanesa, usually), play with the younger kids who are always around, and do my homework. Conviven relies completely on foreign volunteers to keep the English classes up and running, which means that those of us helping out this semester have complete responsibility for designing and implementing a curriculum even though we may feel totally unqualified/inadequate/clueless as to the best way to instruct these kids. I had the chance to observe the class when two Irish girls were in charge of it (their last days were my first), so we've been able to maintain a bit of consistency in terms of structure, but let's be honest we're just more or less making it up as we go along and hoping desperately that the students learn something. Though the class is pretty much always on the verge of an absolute quilombo, I truly adore our rowdy group of a dozen or so 7-10 year olds. Here's a glimpse of how a typical 60-minute class goes down:


"Hello! Welcome!" I say, as several lab-coat-clad kids enter the upstairs classroom. They greet me with a kiss on the cheek and take their seats. "How are you doing today?" Blank stares. "Good?" I show them two thumbs up. "Bad?" Thumbs down. "OK?" Thumbs in the middle. 

"Good!" one or two of them reply. (Every once in a while we'll get a "Happy!" which is always a thrill.) Bored expressions from the rest.

"Alright, well let's wait for the everyone else to arrive before we get started..." Awkward silence. I'm paralyzed between trying to engage them in Spanish and committing to English immersion. I comment on the weather in English, pantomiming dramatically to express how hot it is outside/in the classroom. They look back at me endearingly, all clearly weirded out. 

Once the chairs around the table are full, we get into our introductory activity: "My name is Malissa. What is your name?" I toss the plush die (dice?... English is confusing and I'm clearly not good enough at it to teach it...) to a student.

"My name is Guadalupe," she answers and then throws it to a classmate, "What is your name?" Mariano intercepts it and chucks it across the room. I run to retrieve it. 

"OK, we don't need to toss anything, let's just go around the circle..." 

After several minutes, we switch to "How old are you?" then we start to get into the real material. We review the parts of the body and then it's time for the real crowd-pleaser, "Head, shoulders, knees, and toes." 

"Everybody stand up!" Drawing on my experience as a junior marshal at Riverside graduation, I make the exaggerated motion for "rise" with my arms. A few of the boys remain seated. "¡Chicos, levántense por favor!" All but one of them get up. After we sing through it a few times, I stop doing the gestures to see if the kids can remember on their own. This confuses most of them, so I feel bad and join back in. 

Next we'll play a game or read a book. This portion of the class is often characterized by random interruptions: "Profe, dónde aprendiste inglés?" someone queries. I explain that I learned English growing up because that's what most people speak in the US, just like they learned Spanish from their parents and others around them here in Argentina. Although no one seems quite satisfied with that response, I try to move on with class.

A little while later, someone will usually interject with, "¿Profe, la merienda?" Ahh, the snack. It may be the reason most of them are here, but I try not to take it personally (and trust me, gordita understands). 

I call them up to the front, one by one.
- "Araceli, would you like water or mate?" 
- "I would like mate, please." 
- "Here you go. Would like you a cookie?" 
- "I would like a cookie, please." 
- "¡No no no cada persona sólo puede tener uno!" I yank the second alfajor out of her hand and call on the next child, who also knows the all-important snack dialogue by heart-- asking for a cookie is probably the English phrase they know best, but hey, it's something. 

We fill the last 20 minutes of class with more games and songs (the Hokey Pokey typically consists of me singing and wildly dancing while some of them follow along and the rest point and laugh at me...), and now that the snack is over many of them have lost interest. 

At 5:30 we says our chau's and they scurry out of the classroom. As us volunteers clean up, we laugh/whine about that day's triumphs and antics ("Did you notice that Alex was explaining the activity to the new boy sitting next to him? A few weeks ago he was the one who didn't know what was going on! He's making such good progress!" or "Ugh, what should we do next time Damian lies down on the floor in the middle of 'If you're happy and you know it'?"). 

Sure, the class is always a desafío, but it's also fun, often hilarious, and very humbling; my time abroad has been greatly enriched by my days spent at Conviven. I'm already dreading having to leave these kiddos in a couple months. They're really incredible.   

Mid cookie-stealing debacle
View of the center from upstairs

sábado, 18 de octubre de 2014

Buenos Aires Market

I spent most of last weekend working on a midterm, but I took a break on Sunday to visit the health/artisanal food mercado with Sarah. It was the perfect way to usher in the new beautiful spring weather (and a semi-successful attempt to fill the Durham-Farmer's-Market-shaped void in my life). Pretty much everyone and their madre came out to Palermo to browse the booths (and it got a little aggressive at times-- I suffered several elbows stabs to the gut as I tried to obtain samples of batatitas, aceite de oliva, and also some weird vegetable cookies that were probably best left un-sampled...). I only tried a fraction of the riquísimo fare, so I already have a plan for what I'm going to buy the next time the market comes to town! 


Wok for lunch!

Queso Brûlée: caramelized cheese on a stick. (Genius.)

MAMBA

I know I say this every time I visit another museum here, but I really do think el Museo de Arte Moderno is my favorite! Every single piece is thought-provoking; some exhibits are playful, others are gruesome, and everything's just weird enough to hold your attention longer than a "normal" work of art. 



Más...

I walked through several protests on my way to a meeting Thursday morning... Displays of this sort are pretty much a daily occurrence in the city.

Reading for class isn't so bad when accompanied by coffee and an apple crumble muffin at Muma's!

The view from my desk in my bedroom. It is slightly weird to have a window into the rest of the house, but with sunshine streaming in through the upper windows I can't complain!

Middlebury organized a visit to el Congreso. I kinda zoned out when we talked about all the political stuff but the building is really pretty!


Don't forget to keep up with my Twitter if you're interested in my day-to-day reflections/awkward moments!